Faial: The Blue Hydrangea Volcano Isle
Exploring the volcanic rim of Cabeço Gordo, lunar ash fields of Capelinhos, and transatlantic sailing sanctuaries in the Azores.
Exploring the volcanic rim of Cabeço Gordo, lunar ash fields of Capelinhos, and transatlantic sailing sanctuaries in the Azores.
Part of the central group of the Portuguese Azores archipelago, Faial is known throughout nautical history as "Ilha Azul" (The Blue Island) because of the endless miles of blue hydrangeas that blossom along every stone fence and winding road during the summer months. Yet behind its floral charm lies a dramatic geology forged by volcanic convulsions and oceanic tempests.
At the center of Faial rises the massive Caldeira do Cabeço Gordo, a crater measuring two kilometers across and plunging 400 meters deep into lush endemic Laurisilva forest and tranquil moss bogs. Walking the 8-kilometer perimeter trail along the rim provides continuous panoramic views across the Atlantic channel to the iconic pyramid peak of Mount Pico rising directly from the clouds.
In 1957, a violent submarine volcanic eruption occurred off the western tip of Faial at Capelinhos, continuing for 13 months and creating entirely new landmass composed of eerie black basalt ash. Today, the semi-buried lighthouse stands as a monument to volcanic creation.
For centuries, the port town of Horta has provided refuge for yachts and sailing vessels undertaking transatlantic crossings between the Americas and Europe. An entrenched sailor superstition dictates that every crew must paint a colorful emblem or mural on the concrete harbor wall to ensure safe passage. The harbor wall has thus transformed into a colossal, living open-air gallery of maritime folklore.
Gather in the evening at Peter Café Sport, a legendary tavern operating since 1918 where whalers, ocean navigators, and field researchers trade weather dispatches over gin do mar.